Guyana boas are my favorites of the locality true red-tail boas, and I waited 4 years to obtain some from this specific bloodline.  I was lucky to obtain the adults to this bloodline directly.

My breeders include a female produced by Florida Redtails (which is arguable one of the best bloodlines of red-tails in the nation) and an extremely beautiful light-colored male with a high number of connected saddles.  Our male was produced from 2 unrelated imported Suriname Boas, so he is a F1 unrelated to out female.  In other words, I've managed to combine the traits of a great looking new bloodline with the awesome looks of a well respected, currently established, bloodline to develop something that has the best of both parents. 

Our "Colombian-looking" boas are a mixture of double hets for snow, het albinos, possible het albinos, and large normals.  All are very beautiful animals of excellent temperament, and they tend to do very well for beginner keepers.  This mix-and-match assortment often means we produce unrelated offspring, many of definite hets, even more possible hets, and who knows what else? 

Our lone male Nicaragua phase boa constrictor is a possible het bloody boa from 2 hypo parents that were both het for bloody.  We'll be trying to prove this gene out over the next few years.  Nicaragua boa boas tend to be a "muddier" colored boa, but have the great benefit of being a SMALLER boa.  Because of this fact, they normally make excellent pets for someone that wants a boa without the concern for size.

Our anerythristic and snow boas are the result of breeding a pair of "Pro Exotics" stock double het common boa constrictors together.  This is one of the most robust and prettiest lines of snow boas available.  Our double het for snow boas are unrelated to our above group of albino boas. 

We were lucky enough to obtain a superiorly colored "golden" arabesque male to breed into our other bloodlines of boa constrictors.  Obviously, nothing but improvements can come from this line as it is crossed into many of our upcoming female boas.  

This is a project that we are working on concurrently with a good friend: Graham Criglow.

Our hypo boas consist of 2 unrelated females (one is het sunglow) that were both purchased because of their intense red coloration.  This means ours remain looking like salmon hypo boas even once they mature - unlike some of the other lines out there!  Not only does our hypos allow us to add hypo to the other genes we work with, but it allows us to produce sunglows by breeding out double het female to our albino male mentioned above!  One of the main reasons we got into the hypos was to use to test out our possible het bloody salmon in hopes of one day producing a bloody salmon boa!

Without a doubt, these are the only dwarf boa I would work with if I only had room for one!  They are docile, beautiful, and always stand out in a collection no matter how large that collections happens to be!

This is a project that we are working on concurrently with a good friend: Graham Criglow. 

Argentine Boas are now listed on Appendix I of CITES (i.e., this subspecies is threatened by extinction), so CB animals are the only option left to us here in the US.  Obviously, it is our responsibility as herpers to maintain this subspecies of boas the best we can.  Pure animals for new breeding projects and/or outcrossing may not become available again anytime in the near future!

Kenyan sand boas make neat pets since you can easily set them up in a sand-like substrate that looks natural while making you think about some sandworm scene from the Dune series.  (Maybe we've read too much science fiction, but that is what it brings to our minds!)  They can develop a very awesome feeding response, but they still almost never try to bite when handled correctly.  These are one of the most docile snakes we own.  That might be because we are always sifting through their substrate to take them out to handle.  Their habit of sitting under their substrate with just their noses sticking out makes one think of the cages containing nothing but "pet noses."  Care should be taken to avoid accidental ingestion of substrate with these guys at feeding time!  We recommend always moving them to a new cage, or bagging them, at feeding time to prevent ingestion of their substrate.  Water, a humidity box, and supplemental heat should be provided at all times.  Of all of the snakes we have EVER kept, these have to be the least demanding on the owner. 

While barely exceeding 2' in length (for the females) and still eating mice their entire lives, these are just about the perfect pet snake for anyone.  Males are much smaller than females with many of them looking like 2 Sharpie pens laid down end to end - they are that small.  My adult males eat fuzzy mice with a noticeable bump resulting!  This means you can decide on the SIZE Kenyan you want, and purchase a male or female accordingly!  There aren't many snakes you can do this with.

We live by the "one snake per cage" rule to avoid many problems, but I will readily admit we make one except.  That exception is for our Kenyan sand boas.  Although we separate them at feeding time, we do communally house our Kenyan Sand boas in small breeding groups.  We've done this for years and have never had a problem, but we still recommend that people house them individually.

More recently, some of the smaller islands near Jampea have turned out some populations of retics that are even smaller than the Jampeas.  These have been coined "Super Dwarf" retics in the hobby.  The adults, which are both imported wild-collected snakes, that produced the pair of Super Dwarf retics in my colony were less than 5' and 6' long for the male and female, respectively.  They were imported at the same size they were 4 years after being imported into the country with only negligible incresases in size.  Many Super Dwarfs do stay smaller than typical Jampea retics, but there is still some debate on the maximum size of Super Dwarf retics in captivity.  It has yet to be seen if these are a unique subspecies, a race of the P. r. jampeanus subspecies, or something else.  We will call them P. r. jampeanus until further data is available that demonstrates otherwise.

Regardless of their exact size, there is no doubt that these are a diminutive race of reticulated pythons.  This opens up the door for many more people to be able to keep reticulated pythons as pets.  In addition to smaller adult sizes, they tend to grow a little slower than typical retics, and they are MUCH less likely to bite than typical retics.  When frightened, they are MUCH more likely to try and escape from your hands than they are to try and bite you.  They are active snakes, always watching what is going on in the outside world, and they are commonly seen exploring their cages.  All of these factors combine to make them an excellent choice for someone wanting a very unique pet that doesn't get too large.

I never had much interest in working with retics myself due to their size, but this Super Dwarf line produced retics smaller than many of the boas many of us have kept at one time or another.  These makes them a safe, smaller, pet snake suitable for most keepers.

This is a project that we are working on concurrently with a good friend: Graham Criglow.  Without Graham's drive to obtain this animals, I wouldn't be involved with this project at all.